Are you having a hard time getting rid of pesky broadleaf weeds in your lawn and garden? If so, you’re not alone. Many homeowners struggle with this issue every year. But don’t worry; there are a few things you can do to help get the upper hand on these weeds.
This blog post will discuss some of the most effective methods for getting rid of broadleaf weeds. We’ll also provide some tips for preventing them from coming back in the future. So read on for all the information you need to win the war against these weeds!
What is a broadleaf weed?
A broadleaf weed is a type of weed with leaves that are wider than long. They also develop vibrant flowers that stand out among the grass where they are growing. The broadleaf plant family includes many common weeds, such as dandelions, clover, and plantain. These plants are often considered nuisance weeds because they can compete with desirable plants for resources like sunlight, water, and nutrients.
In addition, some broadleaf weeds produce chemicals that can inhibit the growth of other plants. As a result, broadleaf weeds can be difficult to control and may require special management strategies. Broadleaf weeds are typically annual or biennial plants, which means they complete their life cycle in one or two years.
The short life cycle allows broadleaf weeds to reproduce quickly and spread rapidly. In order to effectively control broadleaf weeds, it is important to understand their life cycle and identify the best time to apply herbicides or other management techniques.
How did broadleaf weeds get into the lawn?
- Broadleaf weeds seeds are present naturally in all soil types.
- Broadleaf weed seeds can survive for 30 years or longer.
- Broadleaf weeds generate many young, fertile seeds.
- Broadleaf weeds produce thousands of seeds, which may come from far away.
- Broadleaf weed seeds are frequently present in any topsoil.
- Cheap grass seeds may contain weed seeds.
How to get rid of broadleaf weeds in the lawn and garden?
Dandelions and other broadleaf weeds like clover, chickweed, ground ivy, purslane, spurge, etc., are some of the most problematic turf pest issues in lawns and gardens. You can easily get rid of these weeds, but it’s not only impossible but also not a good idea to get rid of all of them, so a few are fine.
You can reduce the number of weeds in your grass through good agricultural practices. On the other side, bad management practices like mowing that are too short or improperly timed fertilizing and overwatering or underwatering are the best ways to promote weeds in your lawn. Weeds can infest areas that have been infected by diseases or insects.
Cultural Control Measures of Broadleaf Weeds
Cultural control is intended to reduce the favorable conditions for weeds on the lawn. It is typically utilized as a preventative measure.
Mowing
Mowing helps your lawn stay healthy. Healthy, dense grass prevents broadleaf weeds from taking over your lawn. Mowing won’t kill weeds directly. It can stress weeds, giving preferred vegetation an edge and reducing weed seed production. Mow often (mowing twice weekly in spring and summer) and at the height of 3.0 to 3.5 inches to avoid losing more than one-third of the leaf blade at a time.
Irrigation
The summertime management of annual weeds can be significantly influenced by irrigation practices. Localized water and fertilizer availability may encourage grass growth while suppressing weeds. Irrigate deeply and infrequently. Don’t water until you see drought stress. The first symptoms of drought stress include bluish-gray grass and/or visible footsteps. Apply water to root depth when you see drought stress.
Fertilization
Fertilizer reduces weed attraction in the soil. So weeds will grow in your soil if the essential nutrients are absent. As a result, a nitrogen-rich fertilizer application will eradicate weeds and encourage lush grass.
To make your grass dense, fertilize it once a year with 2 to 4 pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet. Some weeds, like clover, are signs of lawns with insufficient nitrogen levels. After the last mowing in the fall, spread 60–100% of the nitrogen over two applications: one in September and one in November. You can feed your lawn four times a year with Scotts® Turf Builder® Lawn Food.
Shade
Shady lawns are generally too thin and fragile to compete with broadleaf weeds and prevent invasion. Before spreading to other lawn areas, numerous broadleaf weeds develop and flourish in the shade. Violets and ground ivy (creeping charlie) are common shaded lawn weeds. So, you can cultivate shade-tolerant turfgrasses like fine fescues and carefully cut tree branches to increase the number of hours and amount of sun your lawn receives.
Chemical Control Measures of Broadleaf Weeds
Applying a post-emergent herbicide to your lawn is one of the best ways to control broadleaf weeds. The most popular type of herbicide is a general-purpose blend of two or three active substances or individual herbicides 2,4-D, MCPP (mecoprop), and dicamba (Banvel).
A mix of active compounds can control more broadleaf weeds than a single active ingredient. Read, comprehend, and adhere to all instructions included on the herbicide label. Be sure to choose a product that specifically targets the weed you are trying to kill, and always follow the manufacturer’s directions. You may need to reapply the herbicide several times for stubborn weed problems.
Mid-September to early November is ideal for administering a general-purpose broadleaf herbicide. The best time to get rid of weeds like dandelion, plantain, and clover that grow back every year is in the fall. These weeds conserve energy in their stems and roots in preparation for the winter. As a result, the herbicide will enter the plant and move to these plant components along with the food reserves, killing the weed ultimately.
After the weeds have flowered in late spring or early summer, that period is the second-best time. These herbicides can hurt ornamental plants, trees, flowers, and vegetable gardens when sprayed on them directly, drift, or evaporate. For this reason, we should apply herbicides in the fall.
- If there are only a few weeds on your grass, spot-applying a herbicide is good. Apply enough herbicide to moisten the leaf; don’t overdo it.
- Target the actively growing, preferably young weeds.
- Applying herbicides on dry soil may decrease the effectiveness and damage turfgrass.
- Choose an ideal day that is a calm, clear sky with a temperature range of 50 to 85 °F
- Applying herbicides to warmer air temperatures increases the chances of turf damage.
- If it rains within 24 hours and you don’t see any results after 10 days, you might want to apply the weed killer again.
- Controlling pre-emergent crabgrass won’t stop perennial broadleaf weeds like dandelions from overrunning a lawn.
- Wait until the grass has been mowed at least three times before applying new turfgrass seedlings.
- Wait for 3 to 4 weeks until after a big soaker of rain or irrigation for seeding a bare area to eliminate weeds.
- Wait 4 to 6 weeks before using a broadleaf herbicide on freshly seeded areas.
- Wait three days before and after the treatment to mow the treated area.
Annual Broadleaf Weed Control in the Summer
Summer annual broadleaf weeds like spurge, knotweed, purslane, and others are hard to control for several reasons. Depending on the species, these weeds grow quickly and germinate at various times throughout the summer. Because some weeds haven’t grown or sprouted, a single herbicide treatment may only stop one type of weed.
Summer weeds’ waxy leaves prevent herbicides from penetrating and preventing water loss. Consider these methods to control summer annual weeds.
- In late May, use a broadleaf herbicide; some weeds cannot be controlled.
- In April, use a pre-emergence herbicide with isoxaben to stop broadleaf weeds from germinating.
- Use post-emergence herbicides containing 2,4-D, MCPP, and/or dicamba.
- Ensure appropriate cultural measures to limit the growth of the weeds.
A challenge to control weeds
Anyone who has ever tried to maintain a neat lawn knows that weeds can be a real challenge to control. Weeds with underground stems or rootstocks, like Thistles, Wild Violets, and Creeping Charlie (Ground Ivy), are hard to control. Due to their underground stems or rootstocks, removing problematic weeds may take more than one herbicide application.
- Use post-emergence broadleaf herbicides with 2,4-D, MCPP, and dicamba.
- Use broadleaf herbicides that contain triclopyr or fluroxypyr for better results (available only to professionals)
You can prevent weeds from taking over by pulling them up by hand or you can use dandelion puller as soon as they appear. Though it may take extra effort, maintaining a weed-free lawn is possible with patience and perseverance.
My Last Words!
Many weed-control methods and products on the market may not always be practical. Some weed-control techniques, such as chemical spraying, can also affect the environment. You can think about getting a professional to control broadleaf weed permanently. But I suggest figuring out how to negotiate with these weeds and saving time and money.
It is impossible to completely control weeds from your yard. If you combine cultural methods with herbicide treatment in the fall, you can control most broadleaf weeds in your grass. With patience and diligence, you can have a beautiful, weed-free lawn!
